Ancient Babylon was once a marvel, but modern-day Babylon tells a dramatically different tale
In the heart of Iraq, nestled along the banks of the Euphrates, lies the ancient city of Babylon - once the jewel of Mesopotamia and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This city, shrouded in history and controversy, has captured the imagination of many, including Gianmaria Vergani, a 35-year-old traveller from Milan, who journeyed to Babylon to see the ruins of the Hanging Gardens, a lifelong fascination.
Babylon, a symbol of power and glory in ancient times, has unfortunately become collateral damage in modern struggles for dominance. After the US-led invasion in 2003, American forces established a base in Babylon, converting Saddam's palace into their headquarters. This resulted in significant damage to the archaeological site, with helicopters landing directly on it, tanks crushing fragile ground, and soldiers scrawling graffiti.
The location of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon is still a subject of debate. Iraqi archaeologist Amer Abdulrazzaq believes they were located near the city of Hillah, but the lack of definitive archaeological evidence and varied descriptions in ancient texts have kept the debate alive. Some scholars point to a site near the Euphrates, between the ruins of Babylon and Saddam's palace.
The city of Babylon, however, continues to attract visitors who are in awe of its history and beauty. Despite the many challenges it faces, the city's charm is undeniable. The approach to Babylon showcases a stark contrast between well-maintained roads and broken, rutted streets leading to the site.
The city is home to several notable landmarks, including the Ishtar Gate, a reconstructed gate with a deep blue surface adorned with lions and dragons in golden relief. The Etemenanki ziggurat, believed by some to have inspired the biblical Tower of Babel, was a prominent structure during Nebuchadnezzar's reign.
Saddam Hussein undertook an ambitious reconstruction of Babylon in the 1980s, rebuilding entire walls and constructing a massive palace. However, his project was primarily propaganda, with his initials etched into the walls and the palace serving as a display of power rather than preservation.
The city requires urgent cleaning and care, with only four cleaning workers for the entire archaeological site. However, individuals like Hussein Hashem, a 22-year-old tour guide born and raised in Babylon, are keeping Babylon's story alive through their work. Azhar Al-Rubaie, an Iraqi journalist, also plays a significant role in sharing Babylon's story with the world, covering politics, human rights, climate change, environmental issues, water scarcity, and travel, and his work has appeared in various leading publications.
International nonprofit World Monuments Fund has been carrying out conservation work on parts of Babylon, including a project to study and restore the site's Ninmakh Temple. The fund's efforts, along with the dedication of locals like Hashem, offer hope for the preservation of this ancient city and the potential rediscovery of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon.
As Gianmaria Vergani's journey through Babylon comes to an end, he reflects on the kindness and hospitality of the Iraqi people, a testament to the resilience and spirit of this remarkable city. Despite the challenges it faces, Babylon continues to stand, a testament to the ingenuity and ambition of its ancient builders, and a beacon of hope for its future.
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