As the spring season arrives, Yukimi Nagano of Gothenburg discards her garments. (Paraphrased from original text)
The Gothenburg Beat Me
There's no denying the profound impact Gothenburg has had on me. Born there, raised my band Little Dragon with schoolmates, and written all my music there – it's my roots. My childhood was a whirlwind of moves, from Sendai in Japan to Anaheim Hills in California, but the peace and closeness to nature in Gothenburg drew me back. It's hard to imagine living anywhere else.
My teenage years were spent prowling record shops for inspiration, and one of my favorites, Bengans, is still going strong. It's stacked with a vast jazz section and occasionally hosts shows in their cafeteria area. Gothenburg is teeming with pop bands, singer-songwriters, and metalheads – acts like The Knife, Jose González, and El Perro del Mar all started here. Rehearsal spaces are plentiful, and young musicians have ample opportunities to learn and grow. Starting a band as a teenager – that was the most exhilarating thing I could fathom.
Nefertiti, a jazz club with a classic feel, is another landmark for me. With an array of music spanning multiple genres, you can discover new sounds that pique your curiosity, or catch performances by West African artists. I first performed there at 18 and returned to share my debut solo album, For You – a full-circle moment. The stage is low, so audiences are right up in your grill; Swedes may be reserved, but when they love something, they go wild.
Gothenburg is cosy and easy to get around. It's a bustling harbour city with a blue-collar heritage - a humble city by the sea. The waterfront is lively and serves as a beautiful backdrop for sunset gazing. The Gothenburg Opera House, an impressive contemporary building overlooking the harbour, is where I've watched more dance than music. Little Dragon once collaborated with ballet dancers there. From the Opera House's expansive windows, you can spy on Hisingen, the island where I lived as a child.
There are trills of up-and-coming fashion designers in Gothenburg, such as Kristine Boström and Sylvi Sundkler. I prefer dressing up for the stage with second-hand or vintage finds. Myrorna, a second-hand clothing and furniture chain in Järntorget, is my go-to for vintage treasures – I once scored an Italian leather jacket there. For groceries, I cycle to Fram Ekolivs, a health food co-op that sources everything responsibly.
Gothenburg's best museums are nestled in the city center. The Museum of World Culture is a favorite; I recently caught an exhibit about the history of games in various cultures, which was a blast. My parents met at the Gothenburg City Library, another beloved spot; I visit to snag some poetry for inspiration and start writing songs.
My studio is adjacent to the central station. Listen closely to my tracks, and you might catch the rumble of the tram. When friends visit, I usually take them for a Swedish meal at Noot – they have killer meatballs with lingonberry sauce and creamy mash. Gaffelkonst, just a stone's throw from the studio, has a rotating menu inspired by diverse cuisines, offering a Swedish twist. The salad buffet is to die for.
I cycle everywhere, regardless of the weather. Sitting in traffic leaves me restless. Exploring the beautiful nature on the city outskirts is a must – you haven't truly experienced Gothenburg without delving into its natural wonders. Härlanda Tjärn, an eastern lake, has a sauna. I visit once a month, followed by a dive in the lake. Winter is the most invigorating time for a sauna and cold plunge – it's a potent stress reliever. Delsjön boasts two lovely lakes with trails and charming summerhouses with allotments.
As winter gives way to spring, we shed our clothes. The sudden transformation in the city is palpable, with the gradual lightening and everyone heading outside for fika (coffee and sweets). Semla, cardamom rolls filled with marzipan and cream, are everywhere in early spring.
When my dad moved to Gothenburg in the '70s, Haga was known for inexpensive rent. These days, it's pricey, but the warmth of the people remains the city's heart.
For You is available now on Ninja Tune
BARS, CAFÈS & RESTAURANTS- Caféva: Haga Nygata 5E, 413 01- Gaffelkonst: website- Nefertiti: website- Noot: website
SHOPPING- Bengans: website- Fram Ekolivs: website- Kristine Boström: social media- Myrorna: website- Sylvi Sundkler: social media
THINGS TO DO- Gothenburg Opera House: website- Gothenburg City Library: Götaplatsen 3, 412 56- Museum of World Culture: website
- Gothenburg, with its diverse music scene and abundant opportunities for young musicians, has been instrumental in shaping my young dreams of starting a band, stretching beyond writing music in my roots to performing at iconic venues like Nefertiti.
- Embracing various genres and cultures in its establishments such as the Museum of World Culture and Nefertiti, Gothenburg offers ample opportunities for exploring the interplay of entertainment, travel, and lifestyle through music, fashion, and dining experiences.
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