Chillin' in Viñales, Cuba's Green Paradise
Exploring Horseback Rides and Cuban Tobacco Fields in Vinales
Cruising through boundless fields of emerald tobacco and rust-hued soil in Viñales, we shared the road with local farmers gathering the leaves that'd become Cuba's legendary cigars.
This picturesque hamlet nestled in Cuba's western tip boasts a lush, verdant valley with peculiar lunar-like hills and limestone caves, where tobacco cultivation flourished for over two centuries.
Hopping aboard a ’57 Ford Victoria driven by dashing Jose, we embarked on a 3-hour journey from Havana with a handful of classic cars and horse-drawn carriages gracing Cuba's pitted highways en route.
Viñales: A Glimpse into the Past
With the spirit of yesteryear dominating the scene, Viñales’ main street is dotted with quaint, one-story wooden homes with peeling paint. Residents meander around on old-school bicycles, horses, or vibrant vintage American cars.
You'll find a smattering of accommodations in town, but the authentic experience typically unfolds in casas particulares-guest rooms within locals' homes. Perfect for tourists seeking an immersive cultural experience, these family-run gems offer an alternative to Cuba's run-of-the-mill hotels.
Case in point was Lay, our warm host who transformed her residence into a welcoming guesthouse brimming with personality and charm, hosting visitors for a taste of warm Cuban hospitality beyond the communist government's meager $30 USD monthly salaries.
The town's compact size offers a delightful smorgasbord of eateries and watering holes boasting lively tunes, but Viñales never teems with crowds, making it a tranquil retreat popularly whispered to be Fidel Castro's favorite haunt.
Viñales National Park - UNESCO World Heritage Site
Nicknamed 'the Mogotes,' Viñales Valley is a kaleidoscope of jagged limestone hills shaped over millennia by the sea's ceaseless advance and retreat. The valley is home to numerous hidden caves, prompting UNESCO to grace it with the World Heritage designation on account of its breathtaking landscape and rich cultural history.
This primeval seascape emerged millions of years ago and continues to reveal glimpses of its ancient past through the fossils that remain hidden within the mysterious caverns dotting the land.
Ever the magnetic tourist attraction, Viñales was listed among the NYT's 52 Places to Go in 2018.
Beyond its idyllic scenery, Viñales is synonymous with exceptional tobacco cultivated under the attentive gaze of devoted farmers whose livelihoods rest on the verdant patchwork of fields dotting the rural landscape.
Cigars and Cuban Culture
Though I wouldn't exactly label myself a hardcore smoker, I do appreciate the finer things in life, like a decent cigar to round off a long hike or to commemorate a joyous occasion. So, diggin' into the fine arts of cigar-making piqued my curiosity.
The craft of Cuban cigars can be traced back to 1492 when Columbus encountered native Cubans puffing on cylindrical tobacco bundles. The practice later saw popularity soar among European elites, eventually evolving into a popular pastime for affluent men who formed exclusive divans or clubs dedicated to honoring the art of cigar-smoking.
Cuba's resolute cultivation and production techniques were replicated in other tobacco-growing regions, such as the Dominican Republic and Nicaragua. Then came the U.S. trade embargo, which transformed Cuban cigars into forbidden, luxurious treasures, further elevating their allure and price tags.
The fertile grounds and auspicious climate of Viñales have all the right conditions for cultivating elite tobacco. Most locals work the tobacco fields, but let's dive deeper into the secrets behind these renowned Cuban delicacies:
Handcrafted in Viñales
Machines play no part in tobacco farming in Viñales. Instead, crops are harvested by hand, while farmers plow the soil with resilient oxen. It's a testament to the resilience and determination of Cuban farmers who maintain these ancient techniques in the face of modern conveniences.
Our featured guide for a horseback riding tour of Viñales National Park led us past acres of green tobacco fields, where local laborers were painstakingly harvesting the final leaves of the season. These precious leaves grow quickly, becoming ripe for harvest in as little as two to three months.
As the leaves mature, they're hung to dry in specialized hanging contraptions called "secaderos" for around a month, slowly turning to a deep, toasty brown. The Cuban government procures 90% of the tobacco, allowing locals to keep a modest 10%.
The Art of Hand-Rolling Cigars
In order to create striking Cuban cigars, the bulky central vein of the leaf is carefully removed, eliminating approximately 98% of the nicotine lurking within. The leaves are then marinated in a unique mixture of lemongrass, pineapple juice, honey, cinnamon, vanilla, and rum to facilitate fermentation.
Three types of leaves are used in the final construction of a cigar:
- Filler (online): Inserted in the cigar's core to provide majority of tobaccos flavor.
- Binder (online): wraps the filler and holds everything together.
- Wrapper (wrapper): The visually pleasing outer layer that gives a cigar much of its visual appeal.
From the tobacco farm, we ventured into one of the caves peppering the Viñales countryside. Caving is a popular activity in the area, with rock climbing these distinctive limestone formations particularly popular.
More Adventures Await
Exploring tobacco farms isn't the only activity Viñales has to offer. As part of our farm tour, we also strolled through one of the many caves nestled among the mogotes. Bicycles, ATVs, and motorcycles are available for rent to explore the valley on your own.
Visitors love the Cueva del Indio, a popular cave where they can glide past the underground river flowing through it in a boat. We heard rumors of a charming beach an hour north of Viñales called Cayo Jutías but hadn't enough time to visit.
Lastly, don't miss the majestic Mural de la Prehistoria, a striking mural depicting the history of life on Earth from the age of dinosaurs to the arrival of humans. Leovigildo González Morillo, the artist behind this monumental work of art, imbued the mural with a sense of wonder and possibility that's sure to inspire you as much as this captivating corner of Cuba.
Getting to Viñales
Viñales lies about 3-4 hours west of Havana. A daily Viazul Bus service is available for around $15 USD per passenger, with tickets best booked a day in advance to secure your seat. Alternatively, you can hire a classic taxi from Havana for around $60-$70 (depending on your negotiating skills). A pre-arranged day-trip tour that includes round-trip transportation from Havana is also an option.
Top Places to Stay
Looking for the perfect spot to sleep in Viñales? Here are my top picks for accommodations during your trip to Cuba:
On a Budget
- Hostal Casa Lay: A budget-friendly gem boasting charming rooms and a warm atmosphere.
Mid-Range
- Casa Margarita: Affordable yet cozy accommodations in the heart of Viñales.
Remember!
When offered a complimentary farm tour to learn about cigar-making, be sure to extend your generosity by purchasing 15 cigars for about $1 USD each from the guide. Their livelihoods depend on the revenue generated from the sale of tobacco!
If tour operators invite you for a guided farm tour in the National Park, expect to shell out around $35 CUC per person. Happy travels, cigar enthusiasts, and let's indulge responsibly!
"If I cannot smoke in heaven, then I shall not go." ~ Mark Twain ★
Sampling the distinctive culture of Viñales, we ventured into the art of hand-rolling Cuban cigars, a traditional craft that dates back to the encounter of Columbus with native Cubans in 1492.
Immersed in the practices of tobacco farming, we discovered that the secret behind the renowned Cuban delicacies lies in the meticulous process of hand-harvesting, drying, and hand-rolling the tobacco leaves, free from modern machinery. This immersive cultural experience offers a glimpse into the past, inviting travelers to appreciate the finer things in life, such as a well-crafted Cuban cigar.
